DIY Sheet Metal Bender Brake,Related Products
WebPlans for building 5 different sized sheet metal (folder bender) brakes. The brake you see in the picture is 6ft long. It will make up to about degree bends in light gauge WebMay 19, · here it is 36 inches of sheet metal bending glory made from a bunch of metal that I don't use BUILD a Sheet Metal Brake! FREE PLANS! , views May WebFeb 29, · Sheetmetal Brake full set plans & materias SheetMetal Brake Free full set Plans and materials. The basic plan is the same for the simple and the modified version. WebSep 9, · Steps. Download Article. 1. Select materials that will be strong enough for your needs. 1⁄4 inch ( cm) steel plate with bracing will enable you to bend 14 gauge Web[#AWESOME DEALS)Free Lifetime Coaching + 5 Energy Raising Mp3s + Ebook Pdf (Download) [#AWESOME DEALS)Half Marathon Training For Beginners Free ... read more
Release clamps and try to see if the movement of bender is correct an rotate freely. the metal strip now drops down. If you go on channel-iron or tube and bushing bases are welded, an oiling hole at bushings is required. See attached photos. Using a flat file clean up the corner of angle-iron of brake where are the holes that passing the bolts, so as to creating a flat surface in where will be resting the bolts. Place the brake onto the brake's bed. Once again place the sheet metal strip 0. Place another piece from the same sheet metal strip 0. Adjust the brake so as to be adjoined to metal strip tightly. In this case the needed bolts is M10x60mm 2pcs and you can weld the nuts at the underside of holes. But isn't so big deal and can easily modified and be strengthened, avoiding the cracks at the ending of threads.
Clamping the pipe to bench foot with a vise grip and clean the hole using an electric hand drill with ΓΈ16 drill bit. The inner hole diameter of pipe, is big enough so the drill bit can follow the correct direction of the original hole easily. and complete my BBQ, leaving the correct solution a brake with sharpen edges for a later time. Mount the brake in a flat and stable metal surface in my case I have use my hydraulic portable table using two pieces of angle-iron e. Be sure that the hypotenuse BC of the triangle ABC of your brake is absolute parallel with the surface of your base and do welds to keep it all in place. Clean up paint or rust of inner sides of angle iron about mm from corner so as to have a smooth and shiny surface.
Use a caliper or a vernier and mark a straight line at the entire length of the brake on both inner sides of angle-iron at 4mm from the corner. don't use a bar thicker than 3mm , but you can use a combination of bars one over the other,. so as the grinding disk to be absolutely parallel to surface of base. The total height of grinding is 3mm but we need to make only 2. Start grinding sliding the grinder gently from one end to other. At starting do not use any pressure on the grinder, let it work with its own weight, and then push it very gently and with the same pressure from one end to other. If you are not sure that you can control your pressure just slide and let it to work alone. May be take little more time but we need a very good grinding without gaps.
Make pauses when you are on one end of angle to cool down, or use water to helping it stay cool. After some passes and when the grinding sides, start to have different width or have already grind about 1. Pretty good straight and clear without any gaps and the same width 6mm from one end to other at both sides. However I would like to point out there has been no allowance made for different thickness materials. At the moment it would bend very thin sheet but if a thicker sheet were attempted it would seize. This would then allow sufficient space between the bender and the brake when bending the sheet. Just like a normal sheet bending machine.
Reply 5 years ago. Having gone through the Instructable there certainly is provision for different thicknesses of material and they can be clamped down. I like this version of a bending brake and will hopefully make it myself later this year. Any thickness can be clamped down by the press, agreed, but when the bender is folding the sheet, there needs to be an equal distance same as the material thickness, plus the inside bend radius, which is absolutely necessary of course away from the brake for there to be room for the material to actually be there.
The outside of the material will be against the bender and the inside of the material will be against the brake. So to sum up, the bender, in it's rest position vertical , needs to be adjustable in and out to change the distance from the pivot hinge point. Thank you ItsGraGra for pointing this out. The fixed bending edge needs to be set back at least the thickness of the sheet goods or the brake will be 'sprung' when a fold is thrown. This design, with the vertical clamping, would result in the fixed edge being shoved rearwards, the knife edge possibly being swedged up and an inconsistent bend along the middle of the work. Some brake designs use a horizontal bolt adjustment to hold the fixed edge a set distance from the bending line.
Thank you Kevanf1, you have put a lot of good work into your construction and Instructable. Locking the clamping edge both verticaly and horozontaly will increase the consistency of your bends. Ah, but I am plainly not 'any engineer' :D I'm afraid I have not looked at or even seen a press brake close up. So I thought this was fine as it was. I'll take a look at the You Tube video to see the modifications. I'll still be building one later this year :. I think that cover your needs. Soon I will make an Instructable with these modifications. well it look,s easy now to convert to std measures meament,s will be good Awesome Build thks again. Maybe you can get someone to help with translation, pretty hard to follow the text.
Good idea similar to one I built last summer. Mostly easy to follow pic's. Keep up the good work. I've been wanting to make one of these for a while but the thing that has put me off has been sharpening of the clamping bar's edges. You have shown me the way! Thank you :. I am glad that my project is useful to you, and now you can restart. You can see some modifications about this brake in my youtube video. this guide is SOO much better than the one I was making. Excellent instructable, keep up the good work. I always wanted a brake press in my workshop but I didn't want to shell out huge sums of money for a commercial one. Introduction: DIY Sheet Metal Bender Brake.
More by the author:. Sheet Metal Bender Brake mm Mounted on a Hydraulic Portable Table I love metalworking, is my favorite hobby. So for my need to build a stainless steel barbecue I decided to make a sheet metal bender brake. Add to cart. Grow and Cure your Own Tobacco for Cigars, Cigarettes, Pipes. Alternator and Generator Tips and Secret Modifications. Ultralight gliders, powered or unpowered. Weedhopper, Woodhopper, Whing Dhing Plans. Canoe and Kayak DIY Plans. Avro Shackleton MR3 61in Model Plans. Simple Band Saw Lumber Mill. J1-B Homebuilt Ultralight Aircraft Plans. Home PLANS ABOUT US CONTACT US FAQs Login. I saw a how to on making a metal brake and wanted to make a few modifications. This is what I designed and built, adding springs to make the hold down pop up and ensuring accurate adjustability for material thickness.
Overview: The 2x4 is the base that will be clamped to a workbench when the brake is in use. An angle is attached to the 2x4 and another angle is bolted on top of that to hold down the metal I'll bend. A third angle has handles and is hinged to the 2x4. It creates a T shape with the base angle. The third angle is what actually bends the metal against the hold down. My hold down is slotted to adjust for the thickness of metal. Avoid framing studs, get a better quality stud. I got 1" which works, but I'd recommend at least a 1. All of them drive into the wood 2x4. I had these on hand, and 2 per screw put the hinge at the right height. These run through the 2x4 and hinge.
I'm going to do this two tone though. Always pay attention to how close your hands are to the blade and make sure you don't cut through anything unintended. You're creating small pieces of metal that float in the air. You don't want to breathe that. Also wear proper eye and ear protection. A respirator or mask is required. Allow time to dry fully. Chances are paint will find a way to get on your clothes. I wear paint coveralls when working because I've messed up too many clothes. I usually have a respirator as most of my work involves cutting or sawing which generates dust I don't want to breath. I've got safety ear muffs I wear when using any power tools. I also have a full face shield because I like my face and eyes. The first step was cutting the components. The 2x4 was cut to 48". I cut my scrap steel angle, which will be the center plate, to 36" with the 4" hinges flanking it.
This leaves 2" on each end to clamp the 2x4 to a work bench. The other two angles were cut to 44" to reach the outside edge of each hinge. The center of the hinge pin needs to center on the joint between the bending angle and base angle. Later I will take the pin out of the hinge and flip the hinge so that the angles align. I used a metal cutting blade on a miter saw to cut the steel. A table saw cut the 2x4. While I only bought 2 angles, I did have to grind the rust and paint off the scrap angle. While it wasn't really necessary, I cut out the front face of the 2x4 so that the center plate would sit flush. I put the angle in place and marked the edges on the front face with a pencil. I used a jig saw to cut the slot in the wood and a file to true the corners. While I could have tried to flush the top, I didn't want to run the risk of not getting the top flat. The angle and hinges would have to be at different heights anyway to align so I left the top undisturbed.
The hinge pin needs to recess slightly. The base angle is screwed to the 2x4 with 4 evenly spaced drywall screws with recessed heads. The bending angle is what folds the metal. I used clamps and the 1" tube steel handle to hold the bending angle temporarily in place and aligned with the top of the base angle. The top of the bending angle and base angle must align. For the hinges to orient correctly and align the angles, I needed 2 8 washers between the hinge and 2x4, 32 total. I had already pulled the hinge pin out and flipped the hinges. I had to re-drill the recess for the screw head in the hinge, since one side of the hinge is now reversed. It's important to center the hinge pin at the base angle and bending angle joint. With the hinges and folding angle attached to the base angle, I clamped the box tube in place.
The tube will serve as handles, and I spaced them 24" apart. I marked the holes for the bolts that would go through the angle and box tube. The hold down clamps down the metal to be bent. I used a file to create a flat spot in the hold down angle, used a metal punch to create a start for the drill bit and drilled a hole for the carriage bolts. I then put the hold down in place and marked the hole for the carriage bolts on the hinges. I used the hold down angle as a guide and drilled through the hinge and 2x4 and used a forstner bit on the bottom side of the 2x4 to recess the carriage bolt head. My bolts didn't quite line up with the hold down angle, so I used a round file to enlarge the drilled hole to fit the bolt. The hold down needs a slot cut out not only for the hinge but for the hinge to bend back.
I discovered it would be nice if the hold down would pop up when not in use to allow metal to slide in easily. Trying to lift the hold down while sliding metal in was tricky. It hadn't been long that I made a spring jig and did a tutorial for spring making , so that worked perfectly.
I love building tools. There's been more than a few times I've needed to bend metal and I've resorted to clamping 2x4s together and using a hammer. I needed better. I saw a how to on making a metal brake and wanted to make a few modifications. This is what I designed and built, adding springs to make the hold down pop up and ensuring accurate adjustability for material thickness. Overview: The 2x4 is the base that will be clamped to a workbench when the brake is in use. An angle is attached to the 2x4 and another angle is bolted on top of that to hold down the metal I'll bend. A third angle has handles and is hinged to the 2x4. It creates a T shape with the base angle. The third angle is what actually bends the metal against the hold down. My hold down is slotted to adjust for the thickness of metal. Avoid framing studs, get a better quality stud. I got 1" which works, but I'd recommend at least a 1.
All of them drive into the wood 2x4. I had these on hand, and 2 per screw put the hinge at the right height. These run through the 2x4 and hinge. I'm going to do this two tone though. Always pay attention to how close your hands are to the blade and make sure you don't cut through anything unintended. You're creating small pieces of metal that float in the air. You don't want to breathe that. Also wear proper eye and ear protection. A respirator or mask is required. Allow time to dry fully. Chances are paint will find a way to get on your clothes. I wear paint coveralls when working because I've messed up too many clothes. I usually have a respirator as most of my work involves cutting or sawing which generates dust I don't want to breath. I've got safety ear muffs I wear when using any power tools. I also have a full face shield because I like my face and eyes.
The first step was cutting the components. The 2x4 was cut to 48". I cut my scrap steel angle, which will be the center plate, to 36" with the 4" hinges flanking it. This leaves 2" on each end to clamp the 2x4 to a work bench. The other two angles were cut to 44" to reach the outside edge of each hinge. The center of the hinge pin needs to center on the joint between the bending angle and base angle. Later I will take the pin out of the hinge and flip the hinge so that the angles align. I used a metal cutting blade on a miter saw to cut the steel. A table saw cut the 2x4. While I only bought 2 angles, I did have to grind the rust and paint off the scrap angle. While it wasn't really necessary, I cut out the front face of the 2x4 so that the center plate would sit flush. I put the angle in place and marked the edges on the front face with a pencil. I used a jig saw to cut the slot in the wood and a file to true the corners. While I could have tried to flush the top, I didn't want to run the risk of not getting the top flat.
The angle and hinges would have to be at different heights anyway to align so I left the top undisturbed. The hinge pin needs to recess slightly. The base angle is screwed to the 2x4 with 4 evenly spaced drywall screws with recessed heads. The bending angle is what folds the metal. I used clamps and the 1" tube steel handle to hold the bending angle temporarily in place and aligned with the top of the base angle. The top of the bending angle and base angle must align. For the hinges to orient correctly and align the angles, I needed 2 8 washers between the hinge and 2x4, 32 total. I had already pulled the hinge pin out and flipped the hinges. I had to re-drill the recess for the screw head in the hinge, since one side of the hinge is now reversed. It's important to center the hinge pin at the base angle and bending angle joint. With the hinges and folding angle attached to the base angle, I clamped the box tube in place.
The tube will serve as handles, and I spaced them 24" apart. I marked the holes for the bolts that would go through the angle and box tube. The hold down clamps down the metal to be bent. I used a file to create a flat spot in the hold down angle, used a metal punch to create a start for the drill bit and drilled a hole for the carriage bolts. I then put the hold down in place and marked the hole for the carriage bolts on the hinges. I used the hold down angle as a guide and drilled through the hinge and 2x4 and used a forstner bit on the bottom side of the 2x4 to recess the carriage bolt head.
My bolts didn't quite line up with the hold down angle, so I used a round file to enlarge the drilled hole to fit the bolt. The hold down needs a slot cut out not only for the hinge but for the hinge to bend back. I discovered it would be nice if the hold down would pop up when not in use to allow metal to slide in easily. Trying to lift the hold down while sliding metal in was tricky. It hadn't been long that I made a spring jig and did a tutorial for spring making , so that worked perfectly. A compression spring would force the hold down to pop up when not clamped down. I already had wire, using 18 gauge.
You don't need a jig to make the spring, it just makes it easier. You will need a steel rod that's at least the same diameter as the carriage bolts. Attach that to a drill. Go very slowly. Make more spring than you need. You need to cook them, but that's in my tutorial. Originally they were much taller, but I had to cut them down after adding the spring perch. Originally I planned to slot the 2x4 and hinges so I could adjust for material thickness, but I didn't like the idea. I preferred to slot as few components as possible. Instead I slotted the hold down. I taped off what I needed to file out and used a round file to create the slot. Tightening the wing nuts would hold everything in place. This worked in theory, but the washers that are at the top of the spring don't slide on an angle. They worked fine when centered inside the angle, but not when shifted.
When shifted the washers would bind. I needed a triangular shape to facilitate the hold down sliding and to keep the washer in line. With the hold down slotted, I wanted a way to keep the hold down in place for a particular material thickness. While just the wing nuts could suffice, lining up the hold down for material thickness and trying to keep it in place invited error. The leftover steel from cutting the 1. I cut the 1. I didn't want it taller than the hold down or to extend past the 2x4 base. The bolt head butts the hold down, acting as a guide. The bolt can be screwed in or out to account for metal thickness. A nut on the back of the bolt keeps everything in place. When tapping a hole, you need cutting oil. Motor oil will not suffice as it's designed to stop metal to metal contact. I didn't have cutting oil on hand so I used vegetable oil. According to the internet, that used to be the main component of cutting oil.
Go slow and make sure the tap is perpendicular to your hole. I painted it in black and orange because orange is my favorite color. The wood 2x4 is a black rubber under coat and everything else is gloss orange. I left the surfaces that would contact the metal being bent unpainted as I figured it would just scuff the paint. The springs for the hold down make inserting metal very easy.
Build a Sheet Metal Brake,Step 1: Tools and Materials
Web[#AWESOME DEALS)Free Lifetime Coaching + 5 Energy Raising Mp3s + Ebook Pdf (Download) [#AWESOME DEALS)Half Marathon Training For Beginners Free WebFeb 29, · Sheetmetal Brake full set plans & materias SheetMetal Brake Free full set Plans and materials. The basic plan is the same for the simple and the modified version. WebPlans for building 5 different sized sheet metal (folder bender) brakes. The brake you see in the picture is 6ft long. It will make up to about degree bends in light gauge WebMay 19, · here it is 36 inches of sheet metal bending glory made from a bunch of metal that I don't use BUILD a Sheet Metal Brake! FREE PLANS! , views May WebSep 9, · Steps. Download Article. 1. Select materials that will be strong enough for your needs. 1⁄4 inch ( cm) steel plate with bracing will enable you to bend 14 gauge ... read more
Place the bushings to pivots. It would seem that this could be built out of 2x4 faced with a steel surface like heavy gauge sheet metal , and get the job done for a lot less. Feb 26, , PM 4. About This Article Co-authors: I have a couple questions. The location of these bolts isn't critical, but it will look better if they are in line with each other and on each end.
The basic plan is the same for the simple and the modified version. Because of the rounded edges of the angled steel, I think it should be sharper so the metal has a sheet metal brake plans free download edge when bending. Necessity is the mother of invention. I taped off what I needed to file out and used a round file to create the slot. Joe Vitales Inner Child Meditation Guide Download. This is a more complex tool that forms predetermined bends by clamping the workpiece between a matching punch and die.
No comments:
Post a Comment